Types of Phulkari

Phulkari can be found in different types. Let me now introduce to the world of phulkari.

There are many types of phulkari depending upon the motifs, specific characteristics, color of base fabrics and thread.   The different types are described below:

 A. Thirma:  If the Phulkari was embroidered on a white colored base cloth, it was called “Thirma”. It was a symbol of purity. Older women and widows wore it. Bright colors were used on this type of phulkari and the white base color looked like the outline of the pattern. 
 

 B. Chope and Suber: These were wedding Phulkaris embroidered by the maternal grandmother (Nani) when her granddaughter was born. They would be a gift for her wedding. The chope was made to wrap the bride after her last bath before her marriage. The bride wore suber at a particular stage of marriage ceremony known as “phera”.  These were slightly larger than other types of Phulkari. They were a symbol of love, care, passion and happiness, were embroidered with red and orange color with bright golden yellow colored thread. The Chope was also used to cover the bride’s dowry.
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C. Saloo:   It was an ordinary plain red colored shawl of khaddar for daily use in the house, embroidered with motifs of animals, birds, jewelry or human figures.

D. Vari-da-Bagh:   This kind of Bagh was a gift to the bride by the mother-in-law when she entered their house, her new home after her marriage. It was always made on an orange and red colored khaddar with a single golden and orange colored pat. Vari means the clothes and jewelry presented to the bride by her groom’s family. This kind of Bagh was given to the girl before marriage by her mother-in-law, the love showered on her by her groom’s family

E. Bawan Bagh:   Bawan means fifty-two in Punjabi. In this kind of bagh, the base cloth was divided into fifty-two boxes with embroidery. Each of these boxes was embroidered with a different design made with bright colors. Professionals show their skill and patience with an embroidered Bawan Bagh. It shows the versatile talent and creativity of women

F. Darshan Dwar or Darwaza:   Darashan Dwar literally means ‘a gate from where one can see the god’.  A person embroidered this kind of Bagh for presenting oneself at a religious place to thank god after a wish has been fulfilled. It was always embroidered on a red colored base cloth. Human figures, plants, animals, birds and flower motifs were commonly used for this Phulkari

G. Sainchi phulkari:   Sainchi literally means ‘figuring a design’. In this Phulkari, motifs were represented from the rural life of Punjab with embroidery. Sainchi was the specialty of the Malwa religion and of the Bhatinda and Faridkot districts of Punjab. It was the only Phulkari in which designs were traced with black ink before starting the embroidery. Human figures, animals and birds were used as motifs for the Sainchi Phulkari

H. Til Patra:   Til Patra literally means ‘a sprinkling of sesame seeds’. This kind of embroidery was done with small dots on an overall field. These were embroidered for everyday use and presented to domestic servants and laborers as a gift at a marriage or other auspicious occasions.

I. Nilak:    The Nilak Phulkari was made with a black and navy blue base cloth of khaddar, and yellow and crimson-red silk thread, with attractive floral patterns. This type of Phulkari was also embroidered for daily use.

J. Shishedar Phulkari:   As the name implies, pieces of mirror pieces of mirror were stitched onto the Phulkari. It was done in a red or a chocolate brown background. It was made primarily in the southeast parts of Punjab, now in the state of Haryana (Hitkari 1980).

K. Suraj Mukhi:  Suraj Mukhi means ‘Sun Flower’. In this Phulkari, the field was embroidered with large sized boxes that were divided into nine small parts embroidered with different colors. In the centre of every small box, another small box was embroidered with a white thread and a black or red colored outline. It looked like a geometrical pattern.